Journal: Climbing Mount KilimanjaroI check all my gear before going down to breakfast in the hotel at Moshi, ticking off my checklist: hiking boots, thick socks, waterproof pants and jacket, gloves, fleece-lined winter jacket, water bottle, backpack, sleeping bag, hat, headlamp flashlight, camera, sun block, water purification tablets, band aids (for possible blisters on feet), aspirin, malaria pills. I am also stocked up on recommended snack foods: chocolate, dried fruit, energy bars, nuts. Last item to go into my rucksack: warm woolen beanie for the cold weather to come.
It’s a little crazy. Here I am, in the midst of an African summer, already sweating in the early morning heat, and I’m packing clothes for sub zero temperatures. But that’s just one of the enigmas of Mount Kilimanjaro; not only is it the tallest free-standing mountain in Africa, but its peaks are covered in snow all year round. Anyone attempting to summit the mountain would face two extremes of temperature: the intense heat of an African summer, and the intense cold of snow-capped mountain peaks rising almost 6000 meters above the African plains of Tanzania National Park.
Let the adventure begin! The mini bus collected our group of amateur climber/adventurers at 8.30am for the trip to Machame Gate, the start of the climb. We drive through lush farmland and watch lush groves of bananas trees pass by outside. Everyone is chatting animatedly, excited by the prospect of the adventure ahead, and at the same time a little anxious that each of us weren’t fit enough, or strong enough in both mind and body to summit the mountain.
As we drive, the road begins to rise up significantly. The tarmac ends abruptly and the road disintegrates into a disorderly dust track that becomes increasingly steep and difficult. Finally we reach Machame Gate at 1 800m. Machame Gate is a hive of excited activity, a large crowd of climbers and porters intermingle in a flurry of backpacks and gear and passports. Our group signs in at the park office, giving our details and nationality. Quite a mixed bag: Brits, Aussies, a young South African couple, some Germans and one American. Germans are the most prolific travelers to Africa.
While we’re checking in with our details, the porters are sorting the equipment needed for the coming week: tents, food , cooking equipment, fold-up chairs and table. Before they start off up the trail the porters loads are weighed, they’re not allowed to carry in excess of 25 kg. My own backpack, weighs roughly 6 to7 kg. It feels bulky and heavy but not uncomfortable.
That day, around 150 climbers started out on the 7 day trek up the mountain, accompanied by something like 700 porters and guides. We don’t get started alone the track until around one in the afternoon. The dirt track is wide and there’s quite a lots of traffic in the beginning, but the bottlenecks thin out as the different groups settle down at their own pace. As the track rises up before us, we begin to climb through dense rainforest which is pleasantly cool. Fine mist comes in over the tree tops. The dirt trail suddenly becomes muddy and steep and narrow. For the first time it feels as if we’re now engaged in the serious business of conquering Mount Kilimanjaro. The animated chatter and banter among the climbers had died down. Everyone is a little subdued now and concentrating on the task at hand.
At intervals we pause and stand aside to allow quicker moving porters to pass by. It’s amazing how swift and surefooted they move, hardly breathing hard, despite the heavy loads they are carrying. On the first day we walk for over four 4 hours, with a couple of brief stops in between. Our group maintains an easy, steady pace, with different climbers taking turns to take the lead. A guide brings up the rear to assist stragglers. There is a little light rain now as we approach Machame Camp at 3 000m. The glistening trees are beginning to thin and we catch brief glimpses of the snow covered summit in the distance and tree-covered ridges above. By the time we get to the camp the porters have already pitched the tents and erected a mess tent. It’s pretty chilly as darkness descends. The group signs in with the park rangers and afterwards we sit down to dinner in the mess tent. It’s rather cozy, with candles for lighting. We have a meal of thick vegetable soup, cooked over gas, and bread, followed by some kind of spaghetti dish with fish. We are advised by our guides to drink a minimum of 3-4 liters of fluids a day to stay hydrated. There’s plenty of animated chat in the mess tent. The group is excited now we have passed the first hurdle and we’re starting to gel.
Outside the night sky is clear and the stars are out with a near full moon. There’s a lot of bustle around the camp with people sorting their gear and preparing for sleep. I’m sorting my clothes in my tent and thinking about next day. It is quite cold now and it’s going to get colder the higher we climb. We have to climb another 3 000m to reach the summit. The guides have told us that tomorrow we will climb above the clouds to clear blue skies beyond and warned us that it’s going to be dusty. We will be going from an equatorial tropical rain forest to arctic conditions in a very short period. I begin to worry that I will not make it to the summit due to some ailment or physical weakness. We have been told to take aspirin to thin the blood, but I don’t know as yet if altitude sickness will affect me. So far I am confident in my physical strength and I am looking forward to what is to come. Basins of water are provided for us to wash in. After my wash and pulling an extra tracksuit top on as protection against the cold night air, I spend a little time writing up my journal before climbing into my sleeping bag. I have vowed to be disciplined and record the day’s events in my diary each evening before turning in. I am asleep by 9pm. |
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Kilimanjaro facts
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